How to make an "All" variable in grafana with bigquery
Like Jan Garaj already suggested, you can use the custom all value.
I've changed mine to IN to allow the multiple value flag as well
'%') OR (products.name IS NULL
This will escape the IN clause and add an additional OR Operator for your IS NULL check.
HINT: Use the the Query Inspector to see what Grafana will send to BigQuery after resolving the variables.