best way to debug nginx rewrite rules in config file?

Enable rewrite_log:

rewrite_log on;

and set debug level in error_log directive:

error_log /var/log/nginx/localhost.error_log notice;

Enable debugging support, then set debug level in error_log.

error_log   /var/log/nginx/error.log debug;

Now you can tail the log and send your requests through. There's probably more detail than you want, but that can sometimes be a lifesaver.

Oh, and you should be aware that if is evil, in a location context at least...