CUPS service not working, can't find any logs
After a bit of searching and playing around, thanks to @Benjamin's comment above, I finally found that there is a default configuration file which should be installed in /usr/share/cups/cupsd.conf.default
.
I ran
sudo cp /usr/share/cups/cupsd.conf.default /etc/cups/cupsd.conf
sudo service cups restart
and since then it worked!
I still have no idea how the file got lost in the first place though.
I ran:
sudo apt-get purge cups
sudo apt-get install cups --install-suggests
and then I checked that the configuration was correct. I still got a cups error trying to access a network HP printer, and I had to reinstall the printer, and then I got it to work.