How do I install Macports and Xcode for OS X Snow Leopard

I'm new to OS X and I have an older Snow Leopard system. I need to compile a few simple C programs for some analysis work. It seems that gcc et al are part of a package called Xcode, and that many free software programs are in a package called Macports.

It seems that Macports requires Xcode. Xcode is not available for Snowleopard unless I have a $99/year developer subscription. Alternatively I can install Lion for $30.

So to compile a tiny C program, I need to download some 5GB of upgrades and updates to upgrade to Lion, then download some 4GB iso to install Xcode?

Seriously? Am I doing it wrong?

You can register as a developer for free on developer.apple.com. Scroll down to the bottom of the page for

Once registered you can download Xcode 3.2.6 from the developer site: