Where did the "hide the toolbar" thingy go on OS X Lion?

I don't think there's a way to make the toolbar capsule widget thingy show up again.

However, if you want to hide the toolbar, you can right-click on the empty toolbar area and choose the "Hide Toolbar" option:

enter image description here

You can also go to the View menu and choose "Hide Toolbar" from there. It may also have a keyboard shortcut of cmd-opt-t.

Right click and "Hide Toolbar" works for most apps. I couldn't get it to work with MacVim but this should:

Add the following to your .vimrc:

if has("gui_running")
    set guioptions=egmrt
endif

test it out via:

:set guioptions=egmrt

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