Chrome on MacOS – Zoom In (cmd - plus) not working after update

After updating Mac OS a while ago, I cannot zoom in in Chrome using cmd-plus any longer. Zooming out (cmd-minus) and zooming to 100 (cmd-0) works just fine.

(according to the docs – "webpage shortcuts", and common sense, it should still work)

I would have expected this to be fixed within a day, but I couldn't even find any open threads or issues. I could replicate this on 4 different Mac OS machines (both silicon and Intel), so I guess it's not related to anything local. My specs:

Chrome Version 97.0.4692.99 (Official Build) (arm64)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, M1, 2020), Mac OS 12.1 (21C52)

My questions are:

• am I missing something obvious here, or is this an actual bug?
• did I just not find a bug ticket for this, or is there none?

In Chrome 98 it has been "fixed" and now the shortcut is ⌘+Shift+*.