Word or expression for something that's very "funny", but doesn't make you laugh
I would probably use amusing for this. From your description, I'm imagining a story or something else that is entertaining and has a humorous tone, but there's no one specific thing or moment that makes you laugh the way that the punchline of a joke does.
There are some more specific words that apply to certain cases. For example, this is how I usually think of the Mel Brooks film The Producers, about two men running a scam that involves producing the world's most terrible play - it's not funny because of jokes or one-liners, but just because their situation becomes increasingly absurd and ridiculous. In this case, the word farce fits well.
For me that's "witty" or "clever". There's a smart/insightful side to humor, but that's not always what makes you guffaw